For SS24, Italian menswear house Zegna held its focus on the single concept of ‘sanctuary’; in both its physical and mental capacities. Entitled ‘L’oasi Di Lino’ (literally translating to ‘the oasis of linen’), Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori closed out Milan Fashion Week with a sartorial reset in the heart of the city. The peaceful co-existence of a bustling city-scape with the brand’s sustainable ethos is a fortunate reality at Zegna, as the show notes explored: “The dream of nature in a metropolitan context and the circular values it conveys become tangible.”
192 bales of raw linen — transported directly from the fields of Normandy, which will be duly reintegrated into production in Italy following the show — carved out the runway on which Sartori unveiled his vision for the SS24 wardrobe: “At ZEGNA we keep rethinking what an efficient wardrobe should look like these days and we delve into the idea of creating a system of elements…The suit as a matching jacket and pants is passé. Nowadays everything goes with everything and this gives the customer the freedom to play with shapes and tones.”
To ‘mix and match’ remains a refreshingly easy task at Zegna. The collection could be characterised by a sense of fluidity and pragmatism, as collars lay flat and scooped necklines kept things uncomplicated, whilst jackets with 3/4 length sleeves and oversized front pockets offered a relaxed yet inherently functional uniform. Trousers and shorts felt precise yet still full in proportion, with off-centre belts and irregular line detailing in what the brand described as “tension between uniformity and unevenness.”
A subtle balance of textures further aided Sartori’s vision for freedom and fluidity; from silk poplin and double-faced wool, to the consciously-selected linens that dominated the collection. Accessories were minimal yet in-keeping with a current preference for luxury that likes to keep a low-profile, including an update on the brand’s Triple-Stitch sneaker.
Sartori quietly conquered every detail for SS24. It was a collection that felt meticulous and caring, whilst precisely pinpointing the current zeitgeist and consciousness. The Zegna state of mind serves as a much-needed breath of calming, restorative air.
Image Credits: Zegna