Saint Laurent Winter 2024: Anthony Vaccarello’s Fluid Evolution of Menswear

For the Winter 2024 menswear collection, Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello once again demonstrates his mastery of blending classic tailoring with modern fluidity. Building on themes introduced in previous seasons, this collection takes a step further, altering its tone and content while remaining unmistakably Saint Laurent. With a nod to the iconic power dressing of the 1980s and the brand’s rich archive, Vaccarello reinvents masculinity in fashion, merging boldness with an effortless elegance.

Revisiting the 1980s: Power Dressing Reimagined

At the heart of the Saint Laurent Winter 2024 collection is the classic double-breasted suit—a sartorial symbol of power and sophistication that dominated the 1980s. The opening looks, with their sharp lines and commanding presence, evoke the strength and confidence associated with that era. However, Vaccarello adds a modern twist, softening the silhouette as the collection unfolds.

The rigid structure of power suits gradually gives way to more relaxed, fluid tailoring, where crepe georgette jackets lined with satin flow effortlessly without traditional reinforcements. This move away from rigidity reflects a shift not only in menswear but also within the house’s broader aesthetic—one that embraces fluidity, comfort, and a rejection of formality for formality’s sake. The jackets, reminiscent of Saint Laurent’s recent women’s collections, blur the lines between genders, presenting a collection that is as elegant as it is adaptable.

A Palette of Contrast: From Somber to Soft

The color palette of Saint Laurent’s Winter 2024 menswear mirrors the evolution of the collection’s structure. Starting with deep, somber tones—predominantly blacks and dark grays—Vaccarello lightens the mood as the show progresses. By the finale, the collection opens up to a spectrum of pale nudes, soft greens, and dusty violets, creating a striking contrast to the earlier darker hues.

This transition is a subtle reflection of the personal sartorial evolution of Yves Saint Laurent himself, moving from a more earnest, structured style to something bolder and more playful, with a rare sensibility for color. It’s a testament to Vaccarello’s understanding of the house’s DNA, blending heritage with a fresh, contemporary outlook.

Fluid Tailoring: The Illusion of Liquid Fabric

A defining feature of the Winter 2024 collection is the fluidity in tailoring. The carefully crafted garments appear to melt into the body, creating the illusion of liquid fabric. Vaccarello’s skillful use of luxurious materials, such as satin and crepe georgette, enhances this sense of movement and grace, offering a relaxed yet refined take on menswear.

One standout piece, a black leather hat paired with a structured rubber peacoat, pays homage to a 1960s archival reference. This bold, modern reinterpretation of the classic look is styled over loose trousers, striking a balance between Saint Laurent’s history and its forward-thinking approach. The juxtaposition of structured elements with relaxed tailoring creates a dynamic tension, making the collection feel both familiar and entirely new.

A Nod to History: The Return to the Bourse de Commerce

The Winter 2024 menswear show took place in the stunning Bourse de Commerce, a location rich in history and significance for the Saint Laurent brand. The stark concrete rotunda was transformed into an immersive setting, with a monumental arch of dark blooms—calla lilies, anemones, and orchids—decorating the space. This dramatic floral arrangement was a subtle nod to the historic shows of Yves Saint Laurent, grounding the collection in the house’s storied past while pushing forward with new ideas.

The choice of venue and the dark, floral aesthetic echoed the themes of contrast and evolution present throughout the collection. Just as the space was transformed, so too was the clothing—merging the rigidity of traditional menswear with the softness and fluidity that defines Vaccarello’s vision for the future.

A Modern Vision for Menswear

Vaccarello’s Winter 2024 collection marks another step in the evolution of Saint Laurent’s menswear, where classic silhouettes are deconstructed and reimagined for the modern man. It’s a celebration of fluidity, both in form and function, with a collection that transitions effortlessly from power suits to more relaxed, intuitive designs. The careful balance of tradition and innovation allows Saint Laurent to maintain its iconic status while continuing to push the boundaries of contemporary fashion.

As the house continues to evolve, Anthony Vaccarello proves once again that Saint Laurent is more than just a brand—it’s a cultural touchstone, constantly redefining the relationship between power, style, and individuality.

Key Takeaways:

• Saint Laurent Winter 2024 blends 1980s power dressing with fluid tailoring, softening the formal silhouette as the collection progresses.
• The color palette shifts from deep, somber tones to pale nudes, greens, and violets, reflecting the evolution of the collection.
• Fluidity in tailoring, with fabrics that flow like liquid, is a defining feature of the season.
• A striking rubber peacoat paired with a black leather hat reinterprets an archival reference, showcasing Vaccarello’s modern vision.
• The show, held at the Bourse de Commerce, pays homage to the house’s history while embracing a new, innovative approach to menswear.

Saint Laurent’s Winter 2024 collection is a masterclass in combining tradition with modernity, offering a fresh, fluid take on power dressing that continues to shape the future of menswear.

With his unique ability to honor Saint Laurent’s iconic history while pushing fashion into new realms, Anthony Vaccarello continues to position the brand as a leader in the evolution of modern menswear. The Winter 2024 collection encapsulates the perfect balance of strength, fluidity, and timeless elegance, solidifying Saint Laurent’s status as a visionary force in the fashion world.

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Image credit: Saint Laurent