BRIONI FALL/ WINTER 2016 COLLECTION
A sartorial ethos and the romantic sense of the sublime. Brendan Mullane brings the Brioni man on a voyage. Up in the mountains, escaping in a forest as a storm advances. The environmental revelation opens the door to the alter ego: a dreamer. As the collection unfolds, the sharp dresser and his adventurous counterpart morph one into the other, revealing new nuances to the distinctive Brioni language. Exact lines and faultless cuts bring the eye over the surfaces: intricate 3D textures that are the result of multiple processes of dyeing, weaving, printing, brushing, sandblasting. Textiles describe geometric and tactile narratives that need to be discovered up close.
The silhouette is straight and slim. The waist is marked high and the buttoning raises, enhancing the sense of assertive verticality. The tailored suits and precise coats worn with felt hats gradually leave way to other worlds: an artist’s smock in double-face cashmere; a hood with straps worn over formal attire. An idea of sheltering and protection slides trough in the oversized parkas and coats. Patterned formal fabrics used throughout define the sense of this morphing personality: even the oversized rucksack is made in bonded, felted cashmere and suede. A double-breasted mink coat swarms in subtle herringbone intarsia. Bound seams on outerwear hint at inside constructions brought out. Finally, as the voyage brings the man back to the starting point, yet with a new consciousness, tailoring gains adventurous details, like the sturdy patch pockets landing on an otherwise immaculate blazer.
The color palette is a natural progression that starts from grey, grows into alpine notes of green, indulges in blue, deepens into shades of marron glacé and finally darkens in midnight blue.
Accessories are polished leather hiking boots and zip-up Chelsea boots. Bags and backpacks have generous volumes and functional details.
Here are our favorite looks: