Again and Again: Gucci Ancora – Fall/Winter 2024/5 Men’s

•February 17, 2024

“Ancora”: again.

That sense of “ancora”, of rebirth, is the essence of what Creative Director Sabato De Sarno has strove to hook with Gucci, ever since his debut for the brand during September of last year. With this show serving as Sarno’s initial foray into Gucci Menswear, a paradox of the first to do something again is prevalent, though it’s a sentiment that he’s meticulously mapped out.

Across the poetic proverbs of the collection’s show note, written by Sarno himself, the most notable phrase its opening line; “It’s a story of joy of life, of passion, of humanity, of people, of real life, of irreverent glamour, of provocation, of confidence, of simplicity, of immediate feelings and emotions, of a specific type of art, of words – words in artworks, words in pictures, words in spaces, just words.”

From the moment the models stepped onto the stage, amidst a feastful crowd hungry for Gucci, joy was apparent.

Accompanied by the uplifting melodies of musician Mark Ronson, the subdued hues of the rainbow tranced over the runway, visible on double-breasted jackets, chain-pattern suits, and loose ties. A return to classic form for masculine wear that were the focus of Resort collections of yesteryears.

Wardrobe selection felt tailor-made for each individual to stand out in their own right, outfits allowing fifteen-seconds of fame soaking underneath the spotlight. There’s a sense of equality across the spectrum of attire design and color, presentation hammering home flash and style again and again and again.

“It’s a story of everything, again, but this time expressed through joy,” the final line of the show note reiterated. Within Gucci’s Fall/Winter 2024-5 Men’s Collection, Sarno has captured the lightning-in-the-bottle that is the joy of clothing, ancora.

Here are our favorite looks: