It’s nice to be back! After a year-long hiatus, the increasingly popular designer, Simon Porte Jacquemus has staged a much-anticipated return of his eponymous label to the fashion circuit. Finding himself at the peak of the label’s decade-long upward trajectory, with DNA codes and aesthetical foundations of his label firmly established, the time has come for the designer to savor the fruits of his labor, and reap them of course.
The brand’s fall/winter 2021 collection was one of the sportiest Jacquemus collections to date. Instead of usual points of reference, such as his native Provence, Morroco, the designer has decided to look towards the mountains in search of inspiration. Citing trek and ski garments as one of the initial points of reference, the introduction of fabrics, color combinations, and elements both decorative and functional related to the aforementioned fields was a spirited addition to the brand’s ethos. The implementation of lingerie-inspired elements, a mainstay of the label for several seasons already, served as a needed, grounding counterpoint, of what could have otherwise been an aesthetically one-dimensional offering. Energetic tonal clashes between earthy subdued color segments with the vibrant sporty ones helped drive the point behind the alluring combination of references home. But truly, what set the work of the young designer apart from his contemporaries, and the thing that has attracted such a large audience to his designs is present in this collection as well. Interesting play of proportions and shapes, evident in the contrast between the incredibly wearable, separates, both enlarged or over-reduced was calculated so masterfully that it still continues to inspire and amaze.
Image credit: Jacquemus