Dilettevole [dɪˈlaɪtfʊl]. Jolly elegance with a pop tingle, in a playfully surprising context that enhances the pleasurably Italian spirit of the whole. The Santoni s/s 17 collection draws the picture of an outof- the-schemes bon viveur: a light-hearted gourmand who only enjoys the best, in every field, and likes to play and have fun with it.
Precious without a hint preciousness, the collection is a subtle fable of impalpable sophistication. Shapes are simple and elongated, colors are light. The iconic Santoni double buckle recurs as a sign: as a mask on boots, as a clip for fringes on slender shoes, embossed as a ghostly impression on slippers. The intense tactility of manual craft, combined with the quest for essential and aerodynamic shapes, creates a sense of organic modernism. Hand-sewn soles give a new presence to the laceups, while the two-tone styles wink at traditional refinement, with an updated twist. Slippers morph into espadrilles, suggesting en plein air and leisure situations . The unlined sneakers have day-glo details like dynamic graphic elements.
From brown to blue and blacks, with touches of bright green, bright blue and red, the chromatic notes are masculine as they are unexpected. Materials are precious: brushed calfskin, crocodile, kangaroo, patina calf with glossy finishes. The Santoni values – made of savoir faire, joy, humor and the ability to treat luxury with the irreverence that’s an essential requisite of true connoisseurs – this season are expressed through an immersive experience that caters all the senses, conceived and directed by critic and curator Angelo Flaccavento. In the elegant interiors of Palazzo Bocconi, viewers will find an enigmatic mirrored object which they will be able to explore through holes and openings, as voyeurs, discovering, inside of it, the collection worn by models. The spirited drawings by Antonio Pippolini enrich the happening with a vein of sophisticated and surreal humor, which carries on in the food and in the soundtrack.
The message is light but pointy: true beauty is useful, but without a delectable component of selfsufficient pleasure it becomes lackluster, because true beauty is a delight for the eye and the soul.