Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2025: A Joyful Study in Eclectic Elegance
Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a vibrant, eclectic journey that revisits the brand’s history while confidently stepping into the future. Designed by the Antwerp-based studio, the collection pays homage to Van Noten’s rich legacy, offering a fresh interpretation of his celebrated aesthetic. Through bold colors, intricate fabrics, and dynamic silhouettes, this season’s collection feels like a joyous study in the evolution of Van Noten’s signature style.
Silhouettes: A Playful Balance of Structure and Fluidity
Silhouettes in this collection offer a harmonious blend of structure and fluidity. Coats take center stage, styled in multiple ways—tied at the waist or casually layered with sport and lingerie pieces. This creates a sophisticated interplay between sensual and elegant day-to-evening looks. Satin drapes loosely, emphasizing the body’s natural contours, while suiting takes on strong proportions with wide shoulders and cinched waists, projecting confidence and power.
Feminine lingerie details and sensual slip dresses add a delicate touch, while Bermuda shorts replace skirts as the season’s go-to casual piece, putting bare legs front and center. Movement is key: flowing, playful, and accentuated by fold-over basques and snake-print belts that cinch the waist. Sleeves are rolled up, and coats are left undone, exuding an effortless sense of elegance and ease.
Fabrics: A Tactile Expression of Luxury
Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection showcases the label’s mastery of fabric manipulation. Luxurious materials like silk georgette and jacquard bring opulence, while satin and lace create a sensual contrast. Masculine stripes meet intricate jacquards, which are manipulated through techniques like crinkling, pleating, and cloqué to play with light and texture.
The fabric story extends into more experimental territories with laser-treated denim mimicking jacquard and tactile fil coupé that elevates the collection’s craftsmanship. Flocked prints burst with vibrant color, adding dimension and depth to each piece. Every texture tells a story, underscoring the artisanal craft that is synonymous with the brand.
Prints: Bold Florals and Eclectic Patterns
Nature is a central theme in the prints for Spring/Summer 2025, with orchids and exotic flowers reimagined in bold, abstract forms. These prints range from realistic florals to blurred patterns, often clashing and converging to form unique hybrid motifs. The natural world is remixed and reinterpreted—bold full-coverage prints stand side by side with delicate jacquard piping that mimics the sinuous curves of a python.
This season, prints both complement and challenge one another, resulting in a spontaneous and dynamic visual narrative. The mix of patterns and textures adds a layer of unpredictability to the collection, reinforcing Dries Van Noten’s reputation for creating pieces that blend artistic vision with wearability.
Colors: Vibrant Hues and Earthy Tones
The color palette for Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a celebration of saturated hues and earthy neutrals. Vivid oranges, lime greens, and turquoise recall the iconic Spring/Summer 1997 collection, grounding the boldness of the designs. The deep reds and whites of a tulip are expanded into a spectrum of luscious, unexpected shades, creating floral-inspired hues that feel both fresh and timeless.
These colors are not just bright and eye-catching but carefully curated to reflect the optimism and vibrancy of the collection. By balancing these intense colors with earthy browns and beiges, the collection offers a versatile palette that speaks to the brand’s past and future.
Embroideries: A Glimmer of Opulence
Embroidery in this collection takes center stage, offering intricate details that accentuate movement and add a touch of shine. Slick snakeskin appears on matte sequins, while metallic sequins and spherical studs are arranged in grids, catching the light on solid and sheer surfaces alike. These embellishments feel modern yet grounded, adding texture and depth to the garments.
Delicate silver embroideries applied by hand to jackets evoke the feel of salvaged jewelry, while multi-colored sequins create completely textured surfaces on jacquards. The result is a collection that glitters and gleams without ever feeling overworked, achieving the perfect balance between boldness and restraint.
Accessories: Shoes and Bags to Complete the Look
Dries Van Noten’s accessories for Spring/Summer 2025 are just as dynamic as the clothing. Shoes offer a futuristic take on classic forms, with corsetry lacing, transparent heels, and aerodynamic mules in sheer materials. Lace-up flats in python-effect leather and red lacquered treatments add a provocative edge, while silver eyelets and embroidery offer textural interest.
Bags complement the collection’s looks with their own statement-making designs. The new ‘Satchel’ features a top handle and double-buckled top flap, offered in various sizes in python print and calf leather. A slouchy shoulder bag, styled under the arm with a snake-print strap, adds a laid-back touch, tying the collection’s themes together in the perfect blend of form and function.
Jewellery: Sculptural and Futuristic
The jewelry in Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection continues the theme of bold textures and organic forms. Sculptural silver pieces evoke the dangerous beauty of exotic flowers, while clusters of red beading mimic futuristic berries. These pieces feel both organic and avant-garde, reflecting the collection’s duality of nature and modernity.
A Show of Colorful Dreams
Set against a backdrop of organic seating, the models wove through the audience, bringing the collection closer to reality. The music, including tracks like Solange’s “Binz” and François De Roubaix’s “Dernier domicile connu”, added an ethereal quality to the show, complementing the collection’s themes of freedom, exploration, and optimism.
Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a masterful blend of past and future, offering a fresh perspective on the brand’s signature style while pushing boundaries with color, texture, and silhouette. It’s a joyful, confident step forward—an invitation to embrace the eclectic beauty of the world around us.
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Image credit: Show images Gorunway / Featured image + first 3 pictures: Zoé Joubert